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Starburst Placemat
Learn three star quilt blocks
making this delightful placemat
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Learn some new quilt blocks and techniques while making this placemat. Make it uniquely your own
through your choice of fabrics. There is a large assortment of "celestial" fabric to choose from.
Click below to go directly to our listing of sites that carry wonderful
celestial fabrics.
FINISHED SIZE
Approx. 19" x 13"
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All Patterns, images and instructions are copyright protected.
Please read our Terms & Conditions before using our patterns.
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Supplies Required: (I will refer to colors in drawing; quantities allow for shrinkage)
Navy Fabric: for 51 (2" x 2") background blue squares and 4 (4" x 2.5") rectangles (will cut into triangles): 1/3 yard of 45" wide fabric (this will make 1 placemat - buy 1/2 yard for 2 placemats).
Gold Point Fabric: for 5 large rectangles (will cut into triangles): 1/4 yard (this will make about 6 placemats depending on shrinkage)
Brown/Gold Fabric: for 1 rectangle (to be cut into triangles) and 2 squares: 1/8 yard (this will make about 4 placemats depending on shrinkage)
Medium Blue Fabric: 2 large rectangles (to be cut into triangles) and 2 large 2.75" x 2.75" squares (for Ohio Star): 1/8 yard (this will make 3 placemats depending on shrinkage)
White Fabric: for one 2" x 2" square and 2 large 2.75" x 2.75" squares: 1/8 yard (this will make about 4 placemats depending on shrinkage)
Batting: 1/2 yard (for 2 placemats)
NOTE: Instead of batting, I used white craft felt bought on a roll. It is nice
weight, is washable and is cheaper than batting.
Backing / Border (Binding) Fabric: 1.5 yard (this will make 4 placemats: buy 3/4 yard for 2 placemats)
NOTE: You will need the full amounts, always pre-shrink your fabric (if washable).
Thread (to match background)
Sewing Supplies: scissors, quilting pins, large sewing ruler, fabric marking pencils, seam ripper, quilter's square
hint: quilting pins are easier to use than regular pins; a tupperware box works well as a supply box.
Note: all seams are 1/4 inch. Always iron between steps.
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Safety Reminders For Little Helpers
A. Always have an adult do all the ironing!
B. Never run with scissors. Carry them pointed end down.
C. Never use a sewing machine without adult supervision.
D. Always let an adult use the seam ripper for you.
E. NEVER allow a child to use a rotary cutter!
Now you are ready to start!
Please Note: These diagrams are not exactly to scale, but pattern pieces do fit as shown.
Cutting Pieces
First, assemble all materials.
1. Cut out 51 navy squares. Lay out fabric over a cutting mat. Using your large clear sewing ruler and
rotary cutter, cut 2 strips 2" wide from selvage to selvage". Using your ruler and rotary cutter, cut the strips
into 2" squares. Cut another 2" wide strip to a length of 22". Cut this strip into 11 2" squares. You should
now have 51 2" navy squares.
2. For large rectanges, cut as shown below. Cut rectanges using your large ruler, cutting mat and rotary cutter. Then cut on diagonal as shown.
For example, for gold, cut two rectanges and then cut diagonally from right to left, then cut two more rectangles and cut those
diagonally from left to right. Follow directions for all rectangles as shown.
3. For large squares, follow directions below.
4. After all squares and triangles are cut, you will assemble blocks as shown below.
5. When sewing triangles together, place right sides together, with one cut edge directly over the one below.
Sew along diagonal cut edges. Press seam allowance to side with darker fabric. Now, you must "square down" the rectangle to measure
the correct size of 2" x 3.5". Do this with the help of your quilter's square. You need the width to be 2" and the length to be 3.5",
with the diagonal line between colors to run from corner to corner when the rectangle is cut to size. Cut along edge and around corner
of quilter's square.
For more instructions on squaring down, go to: Squaring Down Directions
6. Assemble the Ohio Star quilt block
This is a really easy way to make the Ohio Star quilt block. First, with right sides together, lay a light fabric over a dark fabric.
You should have 2 sets. Draw 2 diagonal lines on each piece of light fabric. Sew 1/4" on each side of ONE of the diagonal lines on each set.
Cut along the drawn line. Open and press seam toward dark fabric. Now, lay one square on top of another square, this time being sure that a dark piece is right on top
of a light piece, right sides together. Extend the line onto the dark fabric. Sew 1/4" on each side of the diagonal line. Cut between lines. Open and press.
"Square down" to 2" finished squares.
For a free lesson on how to square down go to: Free Lesson: Square Down Quilt Block
7. Assemble Block 1 as shown below.
8. Assemble Block 2 as shown below.
9. Assemble Block 3 as shown below.
10. Assemble the 3 blocks as shown in step 4 above.
Your placemat top is now complete! Iron it well before proceeding.
To finish quilt, attach backing and mid layer batting as follows:
1. Cut backing fabric and batting 2" larger in height than placemat top. Width equals placemat
length.
2. Lay backing fabric down, wrong side up. Lay batting over backing fabric. Center
quilt top on top of other 2 layers. Sides should be even, and the batting and backing
should extend 1" beyond top and bottom of quilt top.
3. Pin the three layers together. Then, baste the three layers together by
starting each side's stitch line in the center and sewing to the end. I sew the
short sides first, followed by the long sides.
This is the tricky part. You don't want to create wrinkles or bulges anywhere. See photo below.
4. Cut 2 short side binding pieces 3" longer than height of placemat x 2" wide (i.e. it should
be approximately 17" x 2". Cut 2 long side binding pieces 1" longer than width of
placemat x 3.5" (i.e. it should be approximately 20" x 3.5"). I used
the same fabric as my backing for my side binding (border).
5. Iron under 1/4" on one side of each border piece.
6. Attach the top and bottom borders first, then attach the side pieces.
To attach a top or bottom border, place the border's un-ironed edge along the edge of the
quilt top, right sides together. Pin into place. Ends will extend a bit - that is ok.
Sew through all 3 layers. Flip the border up and to the back. Hand sew the border into
place. Trim ends to be equal to side edges of placemat.
7. To attach the short borders, pin un-ironed border edge to quilt top, right sides together.
Fold under the ends to be even with ends of placemat. Stitch through all three layers.
Flip border to back and hand sew into place.
NOTE: Your borders should be wide enough to completely cover previous stitch lines
on the back of the placemat. See diagrams below.
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