Drapes for wrap around windows

Works well with overlap rods or a corner rod

Also see: home decor

Measure the distance from the place above the window that you want the drapes to hang from (photo below left), to the area below the window you want your drapes to hang to (photo below right). The drapes can hang all the way to the floor, plus "drag" a bit on the floor. How far above the window the drapes start, and how far they fall below the window is your choice. This number will be the basic length of the drapery panel, not including hems.  

Your overall length will consist of the height of the actual window, the distance above the window, and the distance below the window. If my window is 40" in height, the distance above the window is 5" and the distance from the bottom of the window to the floor is 24", I would use an overall panel length of 69". If I wanted a few inches of "drag", I would add about 3" to my length. My basic length would be 72".

Then, measure each window width (one window for each side of the corner). Measure from the distance outside the window where you want the curtain to come to, to the place where the corner edges will meet. This will be the basic width of each panel, not including hems. For our drapes, each panel came outside the window 2". For example, if the window measured 36" wide, I would use 38" as my basic width (not including hems). The panel would start right at the corner and extend out 2" past the edge of the window that is opposite the corner edge. 

Measure each window that meets in the corner because they might be different sizes. For our example here, we will assume each window is the same size.

These drapes lie flat when extended (pulled closed). They are "ruffled" only when open. There is no actual gathering or pleats in these drapes - this is why they are so easy to make (and why I love this style). At this point, all you have to do is decide how much hem you want on all four edges of the drapes. Our drapes have a 5" hem at the top and at the floor. Each side has a 1" hem. It's nice to have finished edges on hems, so allow an extra 1/4" for each hem. 

For example: each panel for our set would be cut 40.5" wide. This is because my basic width is 38". I am adding 1.25" for each side hem (1" for the hem and .25" to turn under on each hem), and there are two sides. I need to add 2.5" to the basic width to allow for side hems. 

Each panel for our set would be cut 82.5" in length. This is because my basic length is 72". I am adding 5.25" for each hem - top and floor (5" for the hem and .25" to turn under on each hem). I need to add 10.5" to the basic length to allow for top and bottom hems.

Therefore, I would cut two panels. Each panel would be 40.5" x 82.5". 

For each panel, press under 1/4" on each long side. Press under 1" on each side; topstitch hem. Press under 1/4" on top and bottom of each panel. Press under 5" on top and bottom of each panel; topstitch hem. 

Attach drapery rod hardware to wall. Our outer brackets were 2" outside the outer edge of each window. The rods will overlap in the center - at the corner. Note: one bracket will lie a bit under the other, but the eye does not pick this up. The drapes will appear straight (of course if someone were to really study the upper corner they might see it, but I don't really think that will be a problem).

Use ring/clips to attach the drapery panel to the rod.

Decide what width and length you want for each tie back. Open your drapes and wrap a tape measure around a panel to determine the proper length. If you want each tie-back to be 24" x 6", cut a piece of fabric 25" x 13". Fold the fabric lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch across one end and one side, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim seams; turn right side out. Press under open end 1/2". Topstitch around all four sides. Attach a ring on each end and a small hook on the wall.

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